Whether arriving by air or sea, Split is a popular gateway. Its splendors must wait, though, for I’m already approaching the island of Hvar in a catamaran due to drop me after one hour at the hippest holiday resort of Croatia, Hvar Town. This paradise comes in two versions; low season offering quiet medieval charms, for example in September, and a high season party zone abounding with yacht-borne celebrities.
Carpe Diem, a famous cocktail bar close to the catamaran’s docking place, has become a trademark of Hvar Town. Around here, I might run into some celebrities at night, when they appear in the bar, on the quarterdeck of their luxurious yachts or under the palms of the Riva promenade. Hotel Slavija, Carpe Diem’s neighbor and contrast, attracts a different crowd; mainly middle-aged couples taking an after-dinner dance to retro pop tunes by Legino Band.
Strains of opera pour out of the Venetian Loggia one morning, part of Hotel Palace. Opera has certainly sounded on many occasions from the stage opposite, Hvar Theater, established in 1612 on the first floor of the Arsenal. The Loggia and the Arsenal mark the lower end of the spectacular St. Stephen Square, whose upper end is adorned with the Cathedral’s trefoil facade. Promenades on either side of the bay lead to small pebble beaches, whereas the most frequented beaches, some of them for naturists only, are found on the Pakleni Islets in front of town.